Tuesday, May 31, 2022

Thailand Part 1: Khao Yai, Hua Hin, Amphawa & Mae Klong Train Market

Post-Pandemic.

Removal of the expensive PCR-Test and cheap domestic flights within Thailand were supporting reasons for me to pick up my red backpack and head out for my usual budget travelling. With my Thailand Pass approved within 6 hours of my application, I rode my motorcycle to Bukit Kayu Hitam from Penang. 2.5 hours careful ride later, I had passed Malaysia immigration and still unsure where to park my motorcycle, although a few had advised me to seek for a new parking complex (which I did not see) or Duty Free Complex, which I ended up, leaving my motorcycle there. There was a motorcycle parking area.

It was easier before pandemic, as I did not need to use my motorcycle. It was either by commuter from Butterworth to Padang Besar, or the less preferred mode - van from Penang to Hatyai via Bukit Kayu Hitam. I did not like the van mode, as Bukit Kayu Hitam was often crowded. And then, there was that RM7 charge for TM6 card-filling, which was ridiculous, as I was capable of filling in on my own.


May 1
Cleared Dannok immigration pretty fast. Shared Dannok van to Hatyai, for the price of 100 baht. Arrived in Hatyai, to be greeted by a half-alive what used to be a busy-with-Malaysian-tourists Hatyai town. Around Lee Garden, all the 7-11 stores were closed. McDonald's was only open at the counter. Massage shops were having less than 5 workers, waiting for non-arriving customers. Around 10 minutes walk away, Hatyai was livelier at areas where the stores or stalls were serving locals.

My breakfast restaurant. So cool.

May 2
Headed to Hatyai International Airport. Tried to catch songthaew to airport for 30 baht, but two drivers tried to offer me private songthaew for the price of 200 baht. Rejecting them was difficult, but I did. With the help of the Kim Yong female sellers, I flagged down a shared songthaew that brought me to airport for 50 baht.

Arrived in Suvarnabhumi International Airport, Bangkok and could not get over the excitement that I was in Bangkok at last, after 2 years of non-travelling. Bangkok was my first experiment with budget backpacking before 2000. However, post pandemic, I was no longer seeking for a dorm bed. I needed a room to myself, for good night sleep, without worries.

Found the commute connection to get to Silom for 63 baht. Walked to i-Sleep in Silom, to find that although I had a booking there, the place was empty. It was already closed. There was a message on the glass door, asking guests to call the written phone numbers. Great! I did not have any phone credits. Darn.

One thing led to another, someone came to get me and led me to another hostel named Hoft Hostel. There was I given my single room, with the shared bathroom two floors up.

Silom was not as busy as the earlier days when Patpong was alive, or when street stalls were allowed. Some of the roads were really empty.


May 3

Famous train landmark in Bangkok

Left in the morning for my train ride to Pak Chong. The train ride was pleasant and it was nice that I was given some snacks. However, the train ride was really cold.

Reached Pak Chong and found my hotel. It was a struggle to communicate with the receptionist. I should have known. The name of the hotel was slightly different when it was compared in Agoda, Google Map and the signboard. It was either Pak Chong Hotel, Pak Chong Town Hotel or Pakchong Hotel. Location-wise, I liked the hotel for being just opposite of the good Pak Chong night market, or that the van station to go to Bangkok was just outside of its entrance. Motorcycle rental was nearby too, but anyone could just rent one near the train station.

My arrival in Pak Chong was greeted with gloomy sky, with the threat of rain. Upon inquiring, the receptionist mentioned 'antarai' when I told her I wanted to go to Khao Yai. I knew that word. She said 'dangerous'. I was disheartened but decided to try my luck and still go. Rented my scooter for 300 baht, I headed for Khao Yai. The ride took more than an hour. My mistake was not including Khao Yai entrance fee into my backpacking budget. It was 400 baht, plus 30 baht for my scooter. Gosh. And I was not there for the whole day. Only for a few hours, as I arrived almost at 3pm, and the park would be closed before evening. Still, I headed out to Lonely Cliff (Pha Diew Dai). It was a long way after the entrance. 

Another mistake of mine was not knowing Khao Yai would be so cold. Really, really cold. My hands felt frozen and I was shivering on my scooter.

Lonely Cliff at Khao Yai

The problem with solo travelling. Cannot find any help to snap for me.

On my way back to Pak Chong, there was another viewpoint.

Mist was building up as I headed back to the entrance.

Little did I know that Pha Diew Dai was the filming location for my favourite Thai BL series, My Ride, on Episode 10, when Mork ran all the way up, to find Tawan, who went out for a jog. The story line was supposed to be in Chiang Mai, but I had to agree that this location did give a rural feeling, and could be mistaken as Chiang Mai. 

There was a local who fell off this cliff in January, 2021. May he be reborn in a good plane of existence.

I regretted I did not fill up my scooter before going into Khai Yai National Park. My petrol meter was nearing its empty end. It was making me tense, but glad that I made it to the nearest town.

Pak Chong night market offered so many varieties of food, and I would say it was my highlight of Pak Chong.


May 4

Before my afternoon train back to Bangkok, I headed to Khao Yai once again, in the freezing morning to visit Ban Tha Chang Spring. Located only by the roadside, this spring offers emerald-coloured water for dipping and swimming. Unfortunately, I arrived at the location, freezing cold again, to find the place close. I could only see the spring from the roadside. Sad.

Gorgeous, right? Ban Tha Chang Spring, free entry.

The train ride back to Bangkok was uneventful. Arrived and rested at La Locanda, near Hua Lamphong Train Station. Met up with Phaik Yeong for dinner.


May 5

Train ride in the morning to Hua Hin. My mistake of buying online train ticket was that I was not aware I would be sitting so near the toilet. The smell got to me halfway during the trip. 

Arriving after lunch in Hua Hin and with gloomy sky again, I decided to go ahead and rent scooter and headed out to view Sam Roi Yot. There was a beach I was supposed to check out, but I skipped because the afternoon looked more certain now to rain, unlike in Pak Chong or Khao Yai. And it rained. Still, it was a brief, heavy rain. I was able to reach my destination and took my photo shots of this Mountain of 300 Peaks.

The one-hour ride here from Huan Hin was worth it.

I was alone there for several minutes. Enough time for some photo-taking.

Headed back to Hua Hin before the day turned dark. Headed for Hua Hin beach and it was windy. A pleasant evening. Nearby, there was the night market too. A good place for variety choices of food.


This was my first blue sky in Thailand. The waves were strong in Hua Hin.

I have always wanted to come to Hua Hin, after Thailand series had shown some of the characters taking a day or two off, to head to Hua Hin, away from Bangkok. And I had to say I did like Hua Hin. There was a certain charm to it that appealed to me. Pity that I was not able to spend more time there.


May 6

Hua Hin Train Station is said to be the most beautiful train station in Thailand. Not that I have seen all to compare, but I have to agree, based on the few railway stations I had been through.

It has some elements of Victorian and Chinese look. The redness was a winning point too.

My train was supposed to leave at 5.30am. I woke up at 4.30am and was in Hua Hin train station at 5am. The train arrived at 8.40am. It kinda screwed up my next itinerary and also a contributor to my bad day. Going up the train, I found someone else was on my seat. I had to settle for another seat. 

Arrived in Ratchaburi and was looking for the bus to take me to Mae Klong. Unfortunately, the bus was not at the location as indicated by Google Map. Used my broken Thai to ask for direction. I was happy when they understood what I had asked. I was stunned when they replied. I had no idea what they had answered me. Hahaha.

Somehow, with the hand signal, I figured I was supposed to continue walking and turn left eventually. It was not difficult to see the bus by the roadside. It was cheap. Only 45 baht to Mae Klong. Arrived to find that the lunch time train was no longer in the schedule and the next train would make me wait for a few hours. So, I decided to go to Amphawa to check into my guesthouse. 


May 7

At Casa Guesthouse Amphawa was my most expensive stay in Thailand - RM109 for one night. Breakfast was included. The night was spent on fireflies tour, which cost me 60 baht. This was my first time on a fireflies tour. The next morning, I was able to make offering to the monk on sampan.

Such offering every morning in Amphawa is a custom.

Amphawa monks can be seen on sampan or walking,

Although I had bought yakult for offering, the property lady owner asked me for 60 baht and she bought items plus flower for offering. She even offered to snap photos for me. 

I headed out to see if there is any activity on the floating market but it was empty. However, the morning sunrise offered me a chance for water reflection photo, and I was so happy that I was there at the right timing.

The morning was indeed really calm.

Sadly, I found out later that there would be no floating market, due to covid-19 and lack of tourists. I was only rewarded by this view of one lady who was rowing her boat, selling noodles.

One lady to make my Amphawa trip complete.

Ever since I had watched Thai series Together With Me, featuring the famous BL Maxtul, I had always wanted to go to Amphawa Floating Market to see the filming location. I actually wanted to see the house which Tul jumped out from into the river, but failed to find it. Still, it was good to be there.

Headed out to Mae Klong for only 10 bath on songthaew, this time, I was eager to catch the moving train on the famous Mae Klong Train Market track. I did not have to wait long. The train arrived, after announcement of 'antarai', and stalls began to clear their items for the passing train. I took several shots and was happy that I was a part of the morning excitement for the arriving train.

Mae Klong train track. I arrived too late, as the market was already closing.

Mae Klong train at the station, awaiting departure.

There were enough tourists here to signal that tourists were coming back already.

Suvarnabhumi was packed with tourists. I got into my place and flew back to Hatyai, to be greeted by rain and no cheap public transportation to Hatyai town. The taxi driver hiked up the price from 200 baht to 250 baht within minutes. I chose to use Grab, for 199 baht. Arrived in Hatyai town to find WE Hostel Hatyai had released my room, claiming that I had cancelled my reservation, which was a lie. My app showed that I did no such thing. No wonder she was willing to release my room. I was supposed to pay 450 baht, booked through Agoda, while the signboard said the room rate was 650 baht. She would benefit additional 200 baht for renting out to another customer. She offered me the dorm, all to myself for 300 bath, although the signboard said 230 baht. I took it and left 200 baht deposit.


May 8

Woke up early in the morning to find no one at the reception to return my 200 baht. I waited for almost half an hour before the owner showed up on motorcycle. 

The wait at Hatyai Mini Van Terminal was another nightmare. The driver refused to move, until the van was full. So, that was another 1 hour and 40 minutes wait, before the van got going. 

Reached Bukit Kayu Hitam. Found my motorcycle still there. Thank goodness. Headed home.


Return tickets Hatyai to Bangkok: RM190
Accommodation: RM334
Scooter rental (twice) + petrol: RM130
Train (4 trips): RM125
Other transportation: RM103
Entrance Fee: RM55

Total (excluding food) = RM937